Taking care of a wild Barn Owl calls for expertise and prudence, particularly in the near term. Whether you have discovered a wounded or orphaned owl or are an experienced rehabilitator, knowing the fundamentals of owl care will greatly affect the bird’s recuperation and final release back into the wild. This book offers thorough directions on how to feed, administer fluids, and house a Barn Owl suitably for temporary care.
Among the most often encountered and identifiable owls worldwide is the Barn Owl (Tyto alba). Specialized predators mostly feeding on tiny mammals like voles, mice, and shrews, Barn Owls are known for their heart-shaped face, ghostly white underparts, and quiet flight. Usually nocturnal, they find prey in the dark using their remarkable hearing. But Barn owls are especially vulnerable to habitat loss, road accidents, and malnutrition during severe weather, which creates circumstances when temporary human intervention might be required.
Making sure a wild Barn Owl is sufficiently hydrated is one of the most important components of short term care. Owls get most of their fluids from the prey they eat; they seldom drink water in the wild. A Barn Owl who has not eaten for several days runs the danger of extreme dehydration, which can cause organ failure and death. Among the several symptoms of dehydration in Barn Owls are sunken eyes, dry or flaky skin, and lethargy. The owl could also seem frail and unable of adequate standing or perching. Should you believe the bird to be dehydrated, you must rehydrate it before trying to feed it solid food.
Giving liquids to a dehydrated Barn Owl should be done gently and patiently. If you have never handled wild birds, think about asking a veterinarian or local wildlife rehabilitator for help. If expert assistance is not right away available, you can try to rehydrate the owl with a dropper or a small soft artist’s paintbrush. Start by half a cup of boiling water dissolving one teaspoon of glucose powder—or sugar in an emergency. Let the solution drop to a temperature between 38 and 40 degrees Celsius. Dip the paintbrush in the glucose solution and wipe it down the side of the owl’s beak. Some owls may react by swallowing, but if not, gently open the beak and put the soaked brush to the rear of the gape, right alongside the tongue. Let the bird swallow then start the process again. Aim for around 10 ml of liquids, which is about 150 drops. Wait a few hours after the first dose and administer another 10 ml, then little bits of moist food. Should the owl regurgitate food, keep giving five to ten milliliters of fluids three times a day. Sometimes a veterinarian may advise liquid feeds like Brand’s Essence or a diluted combination of Hill’s Prescription Diet A/D mixed with warm water.
Since owls do not have a crop, the phrase “crop-feeding” is not relevant. Using a helper makes fluid administration easier. If by yourself, tightly cover the owl in a towel and settle down with it between your thighs.
Particularly in cases of injury or emaciation, a recently arrived wild adult Barn Owl is reluctant to eat willingly. Till the owl is strong enough to eat on its own, force-feeding could be required. In short-term care, a Barn Owl’s optimum diet is quite similar to what it would eat in the wild. The best choices are small mammals like mice and young rats; yet availability and cost make day-old poultry chicks popular. Small bits of lean beef or raw chicken can be utilized in an emergency, but they should not be given for more than two days without some kind of roughage like fur or feathers to facilitate digestion. Little mammals like mice and juvenile rats are perfect since they offer a balanced meal that quite resembles the owl’s consumption. To resemble the owl’s natural diet, these should be presented whole—including fur and bones. Day-old chicks find great value in rehabilitative environments. Remove the yolk sacs and, if needed, chop the chicks into smaller bits. Should small mammals or chicks prove absent, lean beef or uncooked chicken can be utilized temporarily. But keep away from feeding pure meat for long since it lacks the required roughage.
The size of the owl determines the food consumption needed. Usually needing two chicks or four mice per 24 hours, barn owls, long-eared owls, and short-eared owls Little owls need 1-2 chicks or 2-3 mice everyday; tawny owls need roughly 3 chicks or 6 mice. Should the owl show reluctance toward eating, force-feeding could be required. Careful force-feeding of a wild Barn Owl will help to prevent damage to the bird as well as the person. Cut the food into tiny bits roughly the size of your thumbnail to get it ready. Use day-old chicks; chop each chick into six pieces and discard the yolk sac. Either have a helper hold the owl vertically, or tightly wrap it in a towel and place it between your thighs. With one hand, carefully open the owl’s beak. Put the food on the tongue and slide it back towards the throat. Release the beak then let the owl swallow. Should it not be swallowed, gently prod the meal farther down the throat. Proceed as before, waiting between each mouthful 30 to 60 seconds. Focus on the owl’s reply. Stop the feeding and try once again later if it starts to refuse eating after several bits.
A Barn Owl’s rehabilitation depends on suitable home for short-term care. The house should be free from interruptions, peaceful, and safe. For temporary housing, solid-sided plastic pet carrier boxes are perfect; although big cardboard boxes can also be used. At least as wide as the owl is tall, the box should be somewhat taller than the owl and twice as long. Make sure the ventilation holes are sufficient, but steer clear of setting the box in a drafty spot. Fold a large towel around a newspaper to line the bottom of the box. This arrangement makes monitoring of the owl’s droppings and uneaten food simple as well as cleaning. Keep the box in a darkly lit space to help the owl to relax. Make sure the owl is kept warm—particularly if it is malnourished or fragile. Steer clear of direct heat sources; nonetheless, make sure the surroundings are comfortably comfortable.
Periodically check the owl to be sure it has food, fluids, and a clean habitat. Replace the daily box lining and check the owl’s droppings for any variations in consistency or color that might point to possible health problems. The Barn Owl might be ready for release once it has recovered strength, is feeding willingly, and displays typical behavior. The release should ideally take place in the evening close to the spot the owl was discovered at. Should the owl be discovered in an urban setting, think about consulting a nearby wildlife rehabilitator about an appropriate release site.
Verify the owl’s condition before releasing it. Look for any last traces of damage, weigh it, and, if at all feasible, note its flying capacity. Should the owl exhibit any indicators of weakening or disease, keep up treatment or consult a specialist. Short term wild Barn Owl care calls for commitment, patience, and meticulous attention to detail. From fluid and force-feeding to suitable housing, every action counts for the owl’s recuperation and ultimate release. Although this book provides a thorough summary of temporary Barn Owl care, always seek professional advice and assistance from a veterinarian or wildlife rehabilitator. Following these rules will assist to preserve these amazing birds and help to guarantee their survival.